PRADA is the big one; the show that will define the season for months to come. There are "good Pradas" and "better Pradas" and this one was a hit.
Miuccia Prada can singlehandedly turn the fashion mood with utter conviction - and for next summer we'll all gladly swathe ourselves in teddy bear fur coats, wear dresses with jewelled bras over the top, and pull sports socks up to our knees, without a qualm. A really clever fashion designer doesn't just make you want some of the collection; she makes you want to chuck out your entire wardrobe and begin again: these were Peter Blake-style rainbow babes who made us want to climb onto their cloud with them, their feathered hair, bejewelled bags and rubber-toed, high-heeled plimsolls beguiling every time.
Miuccia transforms her Via Fogazzaro venue every season and this time it featured giant murals by El Mac, Mesa, Gabriel Specter, Stinkfish, Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Mornet who had been commissioned to "engage themes of femininity, representation, power, and multiplicity". The images were reimagined onto handbags, coats and dresses - with some faces making crowns of the sparkling bra tops above them.
Beneath the eccentricity and sparkle - that by next summer we'll wonder what we ever wore before - the shapes were strong, but easy to wear; princess coats, pristine pleated cheerleader kilts and smart tailored tunic dresses, or other A-line bustier styles with a pocket on one hip. The palette, too, was hardy and far from summery: khaki and mustard, dark blue, ruby and pink - with bold rainbows slashed across the back. It was incredibly powerful where it could have been cutesy and it cleverly spun the luxury sportswear vibe that looks to be strong for next spring into a whole new arena. So put on your feathered headdress and enjoy!
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